The power steering system in the 944 is said to be plagued with leaks. I replaced all return lines with new fuel hose, and resealed the pump. Unfortunately the pump still leaks. The housing might be warped, since I am sure the o-ring is not pinched. I will have to remove it, and do some further investigation.
1983 944 models came with a manual steering set up. I find this to be an attractive option due to the reduced engine bay clutter, maintenance, weight, and fluid leaks. Increased road feel, and driving feedback will also be nice gains.
Good thing I found one.
Disassemble, a good clean, and some media blasting, make it look factory fresh.
As always some primer, and black engine enamel were administered.
The inner tie rods are very expensive, and hard to find. I found some similar VW ones at a fifth of the price. A vital, and often ignored stop ring, will not fit the VW tie rods. Some machining will solve that problem.
Saturday, 13 October 2012
Front brake rebuild.
While at the local Pick-A-Part, I noticed that the front brakes from an 1980 Audi 5000S were the same as the ones on the 944. I bought the set for about $30.
After removing 30 years worth of rust, I painted them with VHT caliper paint. While the wife was away, the got baked in the oven so the paint would cure. Also installed new seals. All I need now is some stainless steel brake lines.
After removing 30 years worth of rust, I painted them with VHT caliper paint. While the wife was away, the got baked in the oven so the paint would cure. Also installed new seals. All I need now is some stainless steel brake lines.
Front and rear shocks.
Sachs for the front, and Bilstein for the back. I don't trust the longevity of cheap brands like KYB. Adjustable Koni shocks would have been nice. Maybe next time.
The original front shocks came out in pieces. All the oil had drained out, and filled the housing they mount in. Removing the top nut can be accomplished with the use of an impact wrench, or by holding the absorber shaft with an allen key. I had to improvise and use a socket and some vice grip pliers, since the nut sits in a recess that a standard wrench can not access.
The rear shocks were so easy to change, that I did not even need to jack up the car. Two bolts is all what was needed to be removed.
Hopefully this solves some of the vibration issues I had. If not, the leaky motor mounts that I replaced just after doing the shocks, definitely will. Meyle is the brand of mount I chose. Can't justify the price of OEM Porsche ones. Some say aftermarket mounts are a waste of time and money.... I guess we shall see.
The original front shocks came out in pieces. All the oil had drained out, and filled the housing they mount in. Removing the top nut can be accomplished with the use of an impact wrench, or by holding the absorber shaft with an allen key. I had to improvise and use a socket and some vice grip pliers, since the nut sits in a recess that a standard wrench can not access.
The rear shocks were so easy to change, that I did not even need to jack up the car. Two bolts is all what was needed to be removed.
Hopefully this solves some of the vibration issues I had. If not, the leaky motor mounts that I replaced just after doing the shocks, definitely will. Meyle is the brand of mount I chose. Can't justify the price of OEM Porsche ones. Some say aftermarket mounts are a waste of time and money.... I guess we shall see.
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